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Birth date: 26.04.1982

Residence: Kranj, Slovenia     

The age of starting climb: 8 years old

Expetise: IFMGA mountain guide, PhD in material science, alpinist


Facebook: Aleš Česen

Instagram: alescesen

Education: bachelor’s (collage) degree in physics, doctor’s degree (Ph.D.) in civil engineering  

(material science, corrosion of steel)  

Occupation: professional IFMGA mountain guide  

Rock climbing since 1990 (25 years), mountaineering since 200

Winners of the Piolets d'Or 2015


Whats your story?

I start rock climbing very young, together with my brother. For family vacations we often went to the Alps, usually French for climbing, instead to seaside. When I grew up older (about 16 years old) I begun to discover home mountains. I got fascinated to them quite easily and I am trying to spend as much time as possible in the mountains climbing in every conditions.


What do you enjoy doing in your spare time?

Almost everything is connected to mountains. But last few years I do my best to spend some quality time with my family.


What is your favorite aspect of climbing?

Mainly I like the diversity of climbing. It is never the same. Even on the same route today is totally different than few weeks before. The other thing, connected to that is that it is going on in pure nature. There are no norms or rules. Just ethics and basic natural factors.


Whats your most memorable climbing experience?

It is impossible question for me. Every experience is unique and takes a role in a mosaic of my climbing soul. Sure that having an experience climbing in the highest peaks in Karakoram or Himalaya has a big impact on me. But sometimes just an interesting traverse of some ridge in the Alps with my client is fulfilling experience for that moment.


Whats your recent climbing accomplishment?

I just had the fully successful expedition to Latok 1(7145m),  Karakoram, Pakistan. This was only the second ascent of the mountain in history, and the very first one from Choktoi glacier (north side), despite of 40 years of unsuccessful attempts from this side. 


Where is your favorite climbing place? Why?

A small climbing crag very nearby the place I leave. It is not just very convenient for me to go climbing when I do not have plenty of time, but it also always bring the memories from my earlier days of climbing when I was just a small boy on the rock.


What colors you like best?

Combination of green grass, autumn colors on trees with deep blue sky in the background. So not just color but nearly a picture.


Whats your favorite food?

An apple with dark chocolate on a home mountain summit.


Whats else you would like to share with Kailas Friends?

Climbing should not be just about the grades or filling the list of must do things. For me its about the journey through life. It teaches you how to face the problems, how to cooperate with people and how to trust fully your partner.

Some climbing highlights:  


¨    Europe:  

•    Anića kuk - Klin 6c+ 350m, Šubara 6c+ 350m, Funkcija 6c+ 300m, Nostalgija 6b 350m,  

•    Velebitaška 6a+ 350m (all free in 14h) – Paklenica  

•    Šite, Das ist nicht kar tako (7b+, 300m, 'onsight') - Julian Alps  

•    Šite, JLA (VII, 300m, free winter ascent) - Julian Alps  

•    Grand Pillier d'Triangel, Divine Providence (ABO-,5.10d A2-A3, 900+600m) - Mont Blanc  

•    Mt. Blanc du Tacul, Voie de Nuit (IV, 8-, M, 450m, winter ascent) – Chamonix  

•    Grand Dru, North Couloir (VI, 5, 5c, A1, 650m, winter ascent) – Chamonix  

•    Loška, Divji lovec (VI, M6, 1000m, first free winter ascent) - Julian Alps  

•    Rjukan Valley, Norway, Lipton (WI 7, 200m)  

•    Les Droites, The Jackson, ED, 5+, 1000 m, winter ascent  

•    Julian Alps, Mojstrovka, Steber revežev, V-, M7, 500m, free winter ascent  



¨    Karakoram, Pakistan

 •    Latok 1(7145m), North Ridge

¨    Tien Shan, Kyrgyzstan  

 •   Peak Gorky (6050m), Slovenia direct  (V-VI,5,60-  65deg(max90deg),1700m, new  route)  

 •   Khan Tengri(7010m), North route  

¨    Yosemite Valley, USA  

 •   Cookie Cliff, Separate Reality (5.12a)  

 •   Half Dome, regular NW face (VI, 5.9 C1, 750m)  

 •   Washington Column, Astroman (5.11c, C1, 400m)  

 •   El Capitan, The Nose (VI, 5.9 C1, 1200m)  

 •   El Capitan, Salathe Wall (VI, 5.9 C2, 1200m)  

¨    Tibet, Kula Kangri  

 •   Aclimatization Peak (6442m), Normal route (snow 40deg)  

 •   Karejiang III(6842m), Slovenian route (WI, AI 45-70deg, 900m, new route)  

 •   Karakoram, Trango Towers  

 •   Great Trango Tower (6286m), Normal approach (Woolums-Selter) (snow 40-60deg)  

 •   Garda Peak, Karakoram Khush (5.10d, A1, 300m)  

 •   Little Trango (ca. 5450m), American route (McMahon-Wharton) (5.10+, 200m)  

 •   BC slabs, Oceano Trango (5.10c, 300m)  

 •   Trango Tower (6239m), Slovenian route (VI 5.12a/b, 1000m, all free ascent, first free  climb in alpine style)  

 •   Trango Monk (5900m), Chota Badla (5.10 A2, 450m, second ascent)  

¨    Karakoram, Charakusa  

 •   Nasser Brakk (5200 m), British route (250m, 6a+)  

 •   Sulu Peak (6050 m), SW couloir (1000m, 60deg)  

 •   K7W (6858 m), Anderson-House-Prezelj (ED, 6c, M6 90deg., 2200 m, free ascent)  

¨     Indian Himalaya  

 •   Lagan (5750 m), East rib, TD-, M5, 700m, new route  

 •   Hana’s men, North summit (6300 m), West face, TD, 1100m, new route  

 •   Hagshu, North Face, ED, 70°-90°, 1350m, new route  

¨    Alaska, USA  

 •   Mt Frances, South-West ridge, IV, 5.8, 1200 m  

 •   Kahiltna Queen, West face, IV, 60°, 1000 m  

 •   MtHunter, French route, 6, 90°, M6, 1500 m